There are three types of watercolour paints: watercolour pans, watercolour tubes and liquid watercolour. Watercolour pans come as solid dry cakes in small plastic or metal pans and are the best for beginners due to their ease of use and their ability to go from semi-transparent to transparent to semi-opaque. Watercolour Tubes are a more economical option; due to their intense pigmentation a little drop goes a long way, and you are likely to waste less of it. Before you start painting, some set-up is required: paint is placed onto a palette and water is added to start diluting it according to your needs or tastes. Liquid Watercolor Paints are completely transparent paints and can be either pigment-based or dye-based. Because its form is more liquid, you can start painting with it immediately, and it’s great for illustrations and hand lettering.
Most watercolour paper is treated with gelatin sizing, which once applied to paper, makes it less absorbent. This treatment allows watercolour paper to prevent the paint from drenching the sheet and allows for more precise brushwork. However, most readily-available watercolour paper found in craft stores are made from wood pulp, their naturally occurring acidic components having been removed. These cheaper papers can resist discolouration and yellowing, but they are less durable than cotton paper. Made up of cotton linters, fibers that are longer than in wood-free pulp, this higher-quality paper offers more durability which can handle heavier treatment. Most 100% cotton watercolour papers are made using cotton linters.
Hot pressed paper features the smoothest surface, perfect for artists who want precision and intricate details. Hot pressed paper is generally the least absorbent, allowing watery washes to remain on the surface for extended periods. Cold pressed paper is the most commonly used watercolour paper surface due to its versatility across various painting techniques. Cold pressed paper is typically more absorbent than hot pressed paper.
Rough paper possesses the coarsest texture available, as it is pressed between sheets of textured felt during the drying phase and is not smoothed by rollers. This pronounced texture enhances granulating effects, making it ideal for bold and expressive painting methods. Although the terms hot pressed, and rough are widely employed by watercolour paper manufacturers to denote the texture of their products, the actual surface textures can differ significantly between manufacturers, and even between production batches, especially in the case of handmade papers.
Watercolor brushes come in many shapes. The recommended brushes for beginners are round brushes, and add a flat brush if you want your strokes to have a certain sharpness to them.
The top-tier (and priciest) brushes are crafted from sable hair, with the kolinsky sable being the best of the bunch. This hair comes from the tail of the kolinsky, a type of weasel. The so-called "finest" brushes are made exclusively from male hair, but most brushes are a blend of about 60% male and 40% female hair. Sable hair is celebrated for its capacity to hold more water, keep its shape, and maintain a sharp point. On the other hand, synthetic brushes are more affordable and generally hold less water. They can still form a point, but they are significantly stiffer compared to sable hair brushes.
When it comes to brush sizes, there are a lot of choices, but it really depends on what you’re planning on painting. Still, you definitely want to have a basic brush collection composed of brushes sized 6, 2 and 12. Size 6 (or 8): a great choice—small enough for details, but big enough paint larger areas. Size 2: good choice for your second brush, giving you flexibility and precision for smaller paintings and more details. Size 12: paints larger washes and makes bigger, bolder strokes.
The steps to starting a watercolour painting are specific to each artist. If you're aiming for a more relaxed style with gentle transitions, it's best to paint the background first while the paper is still damp and fresh. Working on wet paper allows the paint to flow smoothly, blending easily and creating soft edges. This technique is great for establishing a mood or atmosphere right from the start. You can always mask your subject or carefully paint around it once everything dries. Conversely, if your subject requires sharp edges or clear details, you might want to paint that first on dry paper and then add the background later. This method gives you better control, especially if you want to prevent colorus from bleeding or muddying areas where wet paint overlaps. For more specific watercolour painting techniques, head to our Techniques page.